I’ve been here in Varanasi an entire week as of yesterday. The city hasn’t changed much, aside from some of the buildings under construction growing taller and more complete. I made an interesting observation though, which was that my experiences here are like a relationship – I forgot most of the bad stuff I didn’t like about it last year, but remember it all now that I’m back in the middle of things.
For example, when people would ask what I liked most about being in India, I always mentioned the fact that when I’m here, everything is a challenge, so accomplishing an errand or task feels extra rewarding. These challenges are taking some adjustment, mostly because I forgot how frustrating it can be in moments when I just want to get something done and it doesn’t feel like anyone’s being helpful.
Trying to get a sim card for my cell phone last week is a prime example of such frustration. On Wednesday, the day after I arrived, I was walking back from Lanka and decided to stop by a phone recharge shop to find out whether I could just reactivate my old sim, which I still have from last year. The man said no, but that I could just get a new one from him. In India, you’re required to submit several documents in order to register with the highly regulated phone companies and to receive a sim card. I asked the man whether he needed my documents, and he said no. We chatted pleasantly while he set up my phone number, and I paid him for the sim as well as a 444 rupee recharge on my talk time.
When I went back to NIRMAN, I explained what had happened to Jay (the new manager…Amit’s job) and he told me that I still needed to submit my documents or else Airtel would deactivate my number within a week. He also explained that it shouldn’t be a problem, because whenever this happens, Indians are able to take their documents into the Airtel store post facto and get everything squared away.
Later that day, I went to the Airtel store to find out exactly what I’d need to bring them. When I explained the situation to the men working there, they laughed at me and told me I’d been stupid to trust the shopkeeper. I was absolutely livid. I stormed back to NIRMAN, and Ankur (class 6 – son of the guard, Tiwari) asked what happened. I explained, and he and his father promptly accompanied me to the shop, where I yelled at the shopkeeper for cheating me. He didn’t seem to know that he’d messed up or that I was going to be penalized, and he gave me my money back. He appeared to feel really bad, which made me feel guilty for assuming so quickly that he’d been dishonest. When I told the story to Jay the next day, he told me not to feel bad, that the man probably wouldn’t have given my money back if I hadn’t taken Tiwari ji with me.
Later that day (Thursday), I took all of my documents to Airtel in order to get a sim, and told them that the man had given my money back. They were amazed – one said that it was the first time he’d ever heard of something like that. I felt pretty smug, until the woman processing my documents told me that I’d need to bring a darker copy of my passport. Seriously? Frustrating.
I went back Friday morning. The people there told me to come back in an hour. At that point, I’d been there three times and was fed up with their poor customer service and seeming unwillingness to be even remotely helpful. I went back after an hour, and finally got my sim card.
The reason I didn’t post about this before was because it took some time for me to be able to talk about it without getting severely irritated and irrationally frustrated with the general experience of being here.
I’m hoping I have the energy to write another post about my adventures on Sunday before I leave tomorrow evening. I’ll be staying in the Hotel Radisson with Sunita and her sisters, Anita and Prema, until Saturday morning. WEDDING TIME!! So excited. I have a different sari for each of the three parts/ceremonies that Mitali has arranged for me to attend. I’ve also painted my nails, which I don’t bite while I’m in India. I’ll be sure to share at least a photo or two from the wedding!
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Friday, June 3, 2011
My favorite mural in Varanasi
i've tried three times to upload the rotated version, to no avail. this will have to do!
Thursday, June 2, 2011
My projects
Yesterday morning (Wednesday), I met with Nandini to discuss my work for the upcoming weeks. My first project is to create children’s storybooks using math concepts. I’m to focus on preschool-first grade lessons like counting, simple addition, shapes, and patterns. Nandini told me I could take photos and use them in place of drawings. We’re meeting again Friday to discuss my planning and progress. My other task, which I can complete concurrently with the first, is to research Indian mathematicians and their accomplishments. Finally, I’ll be working with Sunita and Ramesh on their English.
After meeting with Nandini, I went upstairs to the centre to start brainstorming for the books. I didn’t get much work done, though, because the summer session students were up there and Prema came over to chat. We talked for a while about my return to India, Indian weddings, and our families. She told me, “You are a good family member. I love you Pyper ma’am.” I fought off tears. Later, I showed her a photo of my mom and Hadley, and looking at my mom, she said, “She is my mother now, too. We are family, no?”
Aside from how much I believe in the work of NIRMAN, that, right there, is why I came back.
After meeting with Nandini, I went upstairs to the centre to start brainstorming for the books. I didn’t get much work done, though, because the summer session students were up there and Prema came over to chat. We talked for a while about my return to India, Indian weddings, and our families. She told me, “You are a good family member. I love you Pyper ma’am.” I fought off tears. Later, I showed her a photo of my mom and Hadley, and looking at my mom, she said, “She is my mother now, too. We are family, no?”
Aside from how much I believe in the work of NIRMAN, that, right there, is why I came back.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Happy to be back!
After flying Seattle to Paris, Paris to Delhi, spending the night in Delhi with fellow former Berger resident Damini Yarra Marwaha, and flying Delhi to Varanasi, I am finally back at NIRMAN.
I really, really couldn’t be happier.
When I arrived, I exchanged enthusiastic handshakes with Tiwari ji, his son Ankur, who is a rising sixth grader, and Sunil. Moments later, Sunita emerged, and I got my backpack off as quickly as possible and we hugged. Twice :) Everyone was smiling; it was wonderful to receive such a warm welcome from so many familiar faces! After putting my things in my room (the one next door to the one I stayed in last year), I went to chat with Mitali Sengupta (not Mitali Gupta – the one with whom I taught math last summer) in the shop. She was also here last summer, and works in the office. I also saw a couple of teachers I know from last year, but most exciting was seeing Mitali (Gupta). She was my closest friend among the teachers last year, and I am lucky enough to be here for her wedding, the festivities for which begin on the 9th. Mitali, Sunita, and I sat in the guesthouse for 20 minutes or so, chatting about Mitali’s husband-to-be and about the plans for the wedding. The sangeet is the evening of the 9th, followed by some ceremonial procedures during the morning of the 10th, followed by the reception in the evening, which begins at 7:30 and will go until 4am, according to Mitali. I am SO excited. Mitali said she made accommodations for Sunita and me to stay in the hotel from the night of the ninth until after the festivities have ended. I can’t wait. I’ve since eaten lunch and unpacked, and have otherwise been resting and sending emails.
Now I’d like to backtrack, and share a couple things that I noted down with the intent to blog about them once I was settled.
- When I arrived in Delhi, I went to arrange a prepaid taxi to Damini’s house once I had my bags. As I was walking towards the stand, a man pushed hastily past me so he could get in line before I could. I was taken aback, and my first instinctive thought was “Wow, where’s the ‘ladies first’ courtesy?” I didn’t think anything more of it at the time, but looking back on it this morning, I thought my “ladies first” instinct was slightly archaic. In hindsight, I think it would have been more progressive and meaningful if I had wondered about his common courtesy from a person-to-person standpoint, rather than such a traditional, gendered way of thinking. Oh yeah, by the way, in the year since I last visited India, I decided to pick up CMC’s Gender and Women’s Studies sequence after having an inspirational and view-altering intellectual experience in my Feminist Theory class last fall. While I was taking the class, much of my perspective was shaped by my comparative experiences of living as a woman in the United States and in India. This month, I think that the classes I’ve had on gender studies will shape my awareness of my womanhood in light of cultural norms. Just something interesting that I’ll be keeping in mind…
- Staying with Damini was such a treat. Her family has a beautiful home – I honestly think it might have been the most architecturally striking home I’ve ever slept in. There were a lot of glass walls, which help make the house feel open, while still permitting each room’s air-conditioning to best work its magic. Her mom was particularly kind and welcoming, and even made sure I had breakfast (paratha!! – my choice and favorite!) before she and Damini drove me to the airport.
That’s all for now. Right now I’m hanging out in my room and waiting for dinner. After having eaten lunch, I can officially say that I am back on the daal/chapatti express. Wahoo!
I’ll do a better job keeping up with my blog this time. SO EXCITED TO BE BACK!
I really, really couldn’t be happier.
When I arrived, I exchanged enthusiastic handshakes with Tiwari ji, his son Ankur, who is a rising sixth grader, and Sunil. Moments later, Sunita emerged, and I got my backpack off as quickly as possible and we hugged. Twice :) Everyone was smiling; it was wonderful to receive such a warm welcome from so many familiar faces! After putting my things in my room (the one next door to the one I stayed in last year), I went to chat with Mitali Sengupta (not Mitali Gupta – the one with whom I taught math last summer) in the shop. She was also here last summer, and works in the office. I also saw a couple of teachers I know from last year, but most exciting was seeing Mitali (Gupta). She was my closest friend among the teachers last year, and I am lucky enough to be here for her wedding, the festivities for which begin on the 9th. Mitali, Sunita, and I sat in the guesthouse for 20 minutes or so, chatting about Mitali’s husband-to-be and about the plans for the wedding. The sangeet is the evening of the 9th, followed by some ceremonial procedures during the morning of the 10th, followed by the reception in the evening, which begins at 7:30 and will go until 4am, according to Mitali. I am SO excited. Mitali said she made accommodations for Sunita and me to stay in the hotel from the night of the ninth until after the festivities have ended. I can’t wait. I’ve since eaten lunch and unpacked, and have otherwise been resting and sending emails.
Now I’d like to backtrack, and share a couple things that I noted down with the intent to blog about them once I was settled.
- When I arrived in Delhi, I went to arrange a prepaid taxi to Damini’s house once I had my bags. As I was walking towards the stand, a man pushed hastily past me so he could get in line before I could. I was taken aback, and my first instinctive thought was “Wow, where’s the ‘ladies first’ courtesy?” I didn’t think anything more of it at the time, but looking back on it this morning, I thought my “ladies first” instinct was slightly archaic. In hindsight, I think it would have been more progressive and meaningful if I had wondered about his common courtesy from a person-to-person standpoint, rather than such a traditional, gendered way of thinking. Oh yeah, by the way, in the year since I last visited India, I decided to pick up CMC’s Gender and Women’s Studies sequence after having an inspirational and view-altering intellectual experience in my Feminist Theory class last fall. While I was taking the class, much of my perspective was shaped by my comparative experiences of living as a woman in the United States and in India. This month, I think that the classes I’ve had on gender studies will shape my awareness of my womanhood in light of cultural norms. Just something interesting that I’ll be keeping in mind…
- Staying with Damini was such a treat. Her family has a beautiful home – I honestly think it might have been the most architecturally striking home I’ve ever slept in. There were a lot of glass walls, which help make the house feel open, while still permitting each room’s air-conditioning to best work its magic. Her mom was particularly kind and welcoming, and even made sure I had breakfast (paratha!! – my choice and favorite!) before she and Damini drove me to the airport.
That’s all for now. Right now I’m hanging out in my room and waiting for dinner. After having eaten lunch, I can officially say that I am back on the daal/chapatti express. Wahoo!
I’ll do a better job keeping up with my blog this time. SO EXCITED TO BE BACK!
Friday, March 25, 2011
GOING BACK
Hi everyone! I just wanted to make a quick post to say that i am going back to India!!
For those of you who don't know, I'm going to be studying abroad in Buenos Aires, Argentina this coming fall. While I'm studying there for the fall semester, my program actually begins in July, so my ability to make plans for the summer was rather limited. Instead of completing a shortened internship which would have taken up all of my time prior to leaving for Argentina, I decided to go back and work at NIRMAN. I will be there for the month of June - and be back home for the 4th of July!
At NIRMAN, I will be working more on my curriculum planning project from last summer and will help at the teacher training sessions. Unfortunately, the first day of school is July 1, which means I won't be around when all of the students come back. Disappointing! However, their summer session wraps up in the middle of June, so I will have the chance to see the students who chose to attend the summer session.
What I'm most looking forward to:
-seeing my friends and students again!
-attending Mitali's wedding in Varanasi (how fortuitous that it is taking place in June!!)
-(buying a new saree for Mitali's wedding) :)
-exploring the city and visiting my favorite shops (and shopkeepers!)
-the simplicity of living there and the slow pace at which life operates
Hopefully I'll do a better job on updating my blog this time!
For those of you who don't know, I'm going to be studying abroad in Buenos Aires, Argentina this coming fall. While I'm studying there for the fall semester, my program actually begins in July, so my ability to make plans for the summer was rather limited. Instead of completing a shortened internship which would have taken up all of my time prior to leaving for Argentina, I decided to go back and work at NIRMAN. I will be there for the month of June - and be back home for the 4th of July!
At NIRMAN, I will be working more on my curriculum planning project from last summer and will help at the teacher training sessions. Unfortunately, the first day of school is July 1, which means I won't be around when all of the students come back. Disappointing! However, their summer session wraps up in the middle of June, so I will have the chance to see the students who chose to attend the summer session.
What I'm most looking forward to:
-seeing my friends and students again!
-attending Mitali's wedding in Varanasi (how fortuitous that it is taking place in June!!)
-(buying a new saree for Mitali's wedding) :)
-exploring the city and visiting my favorite shops (and shopkeepers!)
-the simplicity of living there and the slow pace at which life operates
Hopefully I'll do a better job on updating my blog this time!
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