sim card drama

I’ve been here in Varanasi an entire week as of yesterday. The city hasn’t changed much, aside from some of the buildings under construction growing taller and more complete. I made an interesting observation though, which was that my experiences here are like a relationship – I forgot most of the bad stuff I didn’t like about it last year, but remember it all now that I’m back in the middle of things.

For example, when people would ask what I liked most about being in India, I always mentioned the fact that when I’m here, everything is a challenge, so accomplishing an errand or task feels extra rewarding. These challenges are taking some adjustment, mostly because I forgot how frustrating it can be in moments when I just want to get something done and it doesn’t feel like anyone’s being helpful.

Trying to get a sim card for my cell phone last week is a prime example of such frustration. On Wednesday, the day after I arrived, I was walking back from Lanka and decided to stop by a phone recharge shop to find out whether I could just reactivate my old sim, which I still have from last year. The man said no, but that I could just get a new one from him. In India, you’re required to submit several documents in order to register with the highly regulated phone companies and to receive a sim card. I asked the man whether he needed my documents, and he said no. We chatted pleasantly while he set up my phone number, and I paid him for the sim as well as a 444 rupee recharge on my talk time.

When I went back to NIRMAN, I explained what had happened to Jay (the new manager…Amit’s job) and he told me that I still needed to submit my documents or else Airtel would deactivate my number within a week. He also explained that it shouldn’t be a problem, because whenever this happens, Indians are able to take their documents into the Airtel store post facto and get everything squared away.

Later that day, I went to the Airtel store to find out exactly what I’d need to bring them. When I explained the situation to the men working there, they laughed at me and told me I’d been stupid to trust the shopkeeper. I was absolutely livid. I stormed back to NIRMAN, and Ankur (class 6 – son of the guard, Tiwari) asked what happened. I explained, and he and his father promptly accompanied me to the shop, where I yelled at the shopkeeper for cheating me. He didn’t seem to know that he’d messed up or that I was going to be penalized, and he gave me my money back. He appeared to feel really bad, which made me feel guilty for assuming so quickly that he’d been dishonest. When I told the story to Jay the next day, he told me not to feel bad, that the man probably wouldn’t have given my money back if I hadn’t taken Tiwari ji with me.

Later that day (Thursday), I took all of my documents to Airtel in order to get a sim, and told them that the man had given my money back. They were amazed – one said that it was the first time he’d ever heard of something like that. I felt pretty smug, until the woman processing my documents told me that I’d need to bring a darker copy of my passport. Seriously? Frustrating.

I went back Friday morning. The people there told me to come back in an hour. At that point, I’d been there three times and was fed up with their poor customer service and seeming unwillingness to be even remotely helpful. I went back after an hour, and finally got my sim card.

The reason I didn’t post about this before was because it took some time for me to be able to talk about it without getting severely irritated and irrationally frustrated with the general experience of being here.

I’m hoping I have the energy to write another post about my adventures on Sunday before I leave tomorrow evening. I’ll be staying in the Hotel Radisson with Sunita and her sisters, Anita and Prema, until Saturday morning. WEDDING TIME!! So excited. I have a different sari for each of the three parts/ceremonies that Mitali has arranged for me to attend. I’ve also painted my nails, which I don’t bite while I’m in India. I’ll be sure to share at least a photo or two from the wedding!